The first time I had gone to "the other city", it was winter. It was one of most thrilling experiences that I have had till that point. At nights the temprerature would drop below 7°C, and initially I was not prepared for it. My friends and I had taken up lodgings at the Tees Hazari Kalibari, which is a Dharmashala popular among Bengalis. It had huge hall-sized rooms, high ceilings, with cold marble floor; frankly, not very safe. It was cold alright. We had no clue that the Dharmashala would not have charging points or hot water or would not provide us with blankets. We were freezing.
The hilarious adventures we had at Kalibari can be addressed later. They are essentially comic, and not what I planned to include in this post. I'm here to talk about my experiences of this particular city in winter, and during the months that led up to it, or right after.
Model Town is a residential area, and like any other quaint residential space anywhere in the world during the winter, the silence grows louder, as fog thickens. I remember taking a moment, standing on my B&B rooftop, late one wintry night. A small space, and strangely attractive. The high, main roads are at a distance from this beautiful house. I could hear the stray cars and trucks rumbling along, at a distance, at the pace of their choice. The house overlooks a canal, behind which is the Nirankara Park, which, honestly, looks eerie in the night, all empty, with bright floodlights drowning everything in pale light. It was cold. The wind from the North can really chill a Bengali bone. I stayed up there for some time. I was new to this foreign quaintness. Not for long.
I also remember taking evening walks along Model Town. The lanes and streets are lined with makeshift bazaars, with fast food stalls. Gol-gappe, chhole-bhature, chhole-kulchey, noodles, momos, in abundance. There are small parks around the blocks, and suddenly you discover yourself along the main roads. Taking rickshaw rides along these roads is a delight. I am not an early riser, but try to get a move on as early as possible when I am there during the winter times. Evening comes quick, there is no time to waste. It's a beautiful blend of a metropolis leading way into something similar to a suburban neighbourhood. I am at a loss of words. Let's just call Model Town calm, and beautiful.
Wondering how to spend a wintry evening in Delhi if you don't know the CR Park Bengalis or Model Town locals? Let me be your inexperienced, crude guide, yet again. Maybe take a walk from India Gate to Khan Market. It is quite a stretch, but the roads and sidewalks are lovely. Find yourself to be lost in a crowded Sarojini Nagar Market, bargaining for first replicas of branded jackets for the approaching winter. Take a small break, have some garam chai, malai maarke. Visit Theobroma, at Connaught Place, sip on coffee, share an eclair (my favourite). And if you desire a rustic experience, you know the place: Delhi 6.
Inevitably, Delhi 6 is where all my stories end. And where my hopes stay alive. They are old, fragile, flawed. But yes, this is where hopes can survive. Listen to the Mahgrib at sundown. Bite down on hot pakore or keema samosa at Kallan Sweets. Or for the unrestrained, there is always the nalli nihari at dawn, from Kallu Nihari.
 |
This frame really misses the moon. The moon was up, but I missed it with this quick shot. Had a train to catch. 2017. |
I know, by naming just a few of the things to do in Delhi, I am probably being unjust towards the equally important, relevant, and amazing experiences that this city has to offer. And many others will disagree with me, about what is the best thing to do. And they might be right. I haven't explored the nooks and crannies, yet. I haven't explored even 10% of this city. Yet, I am in love with the people. Yet, I am in love with the spaces. And I continue to be in love with these places and people, because these are my first tastes of the world. I will have no regrets if they are all that remain. Selfishly, I will add, it is however important that these remain.
I understand, we all have spaces and comfort zones. But the way how a space, and a season, and most importantly the people in a foreign city welcomed and accepted me, is something I am forever grateful for. I am indebted and grateful. With COVID19, and everything, I miss being there this winter. But, I guess that is the thing about life, isn't it? The unpredictability of it. This once, let's hold on to hope and love, and pray. For time heals. And time presents us with opportunity.
With love,
A man who is still striving to not be a frog in a well.
 |
High sun, and tall monuments, circa 2017. |
Comments
Post a Comment